Luxury lounge defined Fendi’s fall ’16 menswear presentation in Milan, aligning with the overwhelming trend this season that’s seen a surplus of robes decorating everyone’s runway from J.W. Anderson to Gucci. There’s something innately retro about this recurring style, conjuring visuals of ’70s suburbia where dads ditched their business casual suits to park in front of antenna TV for hours—cigar in-hand—wearing terribly patterned pajama sets. For Fendi, this nostalgic imagery was intensified by the production’s plush, golden runway—the kind of carpeting you’d find left untouched in the basement of your grandparents’ place.
Beyond atmosphere, the collection itself was a fresh and inspiring offering from the prized Italian house, taking thematic cue from Alessandro Michele’s retro takeover at Gucci. Pants were all flared and cut a bit longer than they’ve been in previous seasons (the crop is officially dead), making for a dramatic, billowing break that recalls something a Rolling Stones roadie might’ve rocked in decades past. The runway’s lush texture mirrored the fabrication of garments: woolly robe coats, fluffy oversized collars and, of course, furry slippers.
The star, considering how traditionally mundane men’s accessories have been throughout history, was Fendi’s selection of bags, from a canary yellow fur tote to fuzzy backpacks decorated with emoji-style faces. Though Vogue writer Luke Leitch described this body of work as one marked by “wild impracticalities,” we can’t find one “impractical” thing about toting a monstrous bird-like bag; it’s an ideal design, really, for everything from weekly Trader Joe’s trips to nightly gym visits. Watch the full presentation, below:
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